LockedALMOST30S ULTIMATE (HOW TO INSTALL HIDS IN AN 05-09 BRUTE GUIDE)56K BEWARE. 2nd try..

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ALMOST30S
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2009/04/01 07:21:40 (permalink)

ALMOST30S ULTIMATE (HOW TO INSTALL HIDS IN AN 05-09 BRUTE GUIDE)56K BEWARE. 2nd try..

ok lets try this AGAIN
 
Ok so i felt like giving,and helping people out,until i got about halfway into this,i realized i didnt want to do it anymore because it was a huge pain in the butt ( to do the install one handedly and then mess with photobucket for  5 days editing the pictures and discusing what i did in detail on which one). so here goes
 
Make sure you read this from start to finish before you even start on the hids!!
 
Before starting these let me educate you a little bit on the hids.
 
 First off,hid stands for HIGH INTENSITY DISCHARGE.
 
Ok now for the color temp.. . the different numbers with K's on the end such as 4300K,5000K,6000K,8000K for example is not the brightness of the bulb so to speak.Its the different COLORS that the bulb produces.For instance if you have a 4300 bulb its going to have a slight yellow tint to it,then you go to the 5000k,its going to be bright white light almost simulating pure daylight,6000k is when the slight hint of blue starts to tint the light output ,8000k you can really start seeing the bluish in the lights then...the further up the K scale you go the bluer they get then it changes to purple,i think they even have pinks,reds and greens now too,going up to 40000k i believe. Another thing to consider is the further you go up the K scale or color scale the "less light" they put out so to speak.The brightest light output comes from the 4300ks or 5000ks,the more you go above that the less light you get(its still at least 2 times brighter than your factory high beams tho,but the 4300k/5000ks are at least 3-5 times brighter depending on what kit you use(35 or 55watt)
 
 Next you can use either a 35 or 55 watt kit,i have used both,Id go ahead and go with the 55watt but its completly up to you.
 
 NEVER AT ANYTIME TOUCH THE BULBS!They will fail prematurely if you do.
 
The first time you turn the hids on let them stay on for at least 10 minutes to “break in properly”
 
If your not familiar with hids they “flicker” when you first turn them on and then it takes about 3-5 seconds for them to burn at full intensity,so if you turn them on and they are dim and flickering at first don’t freak out,this is normal.
 
The best kit to use is the H3 bulb kit. In whatever color and watt you perfer
 
 Last but not least,I am not perfect,I have and do make mistakes,rarely but they happen lol,but on a serious note,there are a few different ways to do the install of hids on these brutes,but there all basically the same,they just vary slightly with different peoples preferences.This is MY WAY and best of all,as you will see,IT WORKS. I hope this helps you and encourages you to do them on your bike if you have been thinking about it.I live in greenville,ms if you dont feel like you are able to do them,even after seeing/reading all of this,i can do them for you.
 
So on with the pictures and install
 
This is the install of the 55watt H3 6000k hid kit in a 2008 brute force.There are a few different ways to do these but this is my way and it works!

 
First grab the lever on the left side of your seat located here,pullup on it and this will remove your seat

 
pull it up and remove it,set it to the side,you wont need it for a little while

 
Now you can see all the electronics under the seat.

 
ok here you see your battery,it is held in by 3 10mm bolts,one here

 
One here

 
And one here

 
Remove those bolts to have better access to the battery connctions,Its always good to disconnect the battery when your doing your hid light install

 
To remove the battery cables you will unscrew these 2 10mm bolts counterclockwise (you can also use a #3 phillips head screwdriver if you would perfer to use that tool instead)

 
Just a quick picture of the stock left headlight on high beam with a blue park lamp,i will later discuss the type and where you can get them.

 
stock headlights shining on the wall

 
ok now that we have those before pictures taken we can disconnect the battery,in this picture im taking it out to put on charge,you dont have to do this but i did just to service it while it was unhooked.

 
ok next under your left wheelwhell right above the top of your shock you will see your factory headlight connection.

This is the clip that holds the factory headlight wires up and out of the way,save these,you will use them again.To remove them you will push the clip together and pull up on it.

 
Here you can see how the clip locks into the hole after it is inserted by spreading apart.

 
here you you can see how it collapses to be able to be extracted from the hole

 
There is another clip on the backside of the connector,be sure to remove that one for easier access also

 
Ok now use your small tool of choice (mine just happend to be my knife) to release the 3 locks that hold your connector together.

 
Be patient,this can be a little difficult depending on how dirty they are or how long they have been together,There is one lock on top and 2 locks on the side.

 
Ok now that you have realesed the locks while gently pulling the connector apart it will look like this after you get it apart.

 
Here is a picture of the connectory taken apart,you can see how dirty it was but luckly the seal kept kept the connecting pins clean

 
Ok next you can take your 8mm wrench and turn this screw counterclockwise to remove it as shown in this picture,it is located on the left side of the headlight

 
 
 
 
Picture after removing left 8mm bolt

 
Next you will want to remove the #2 phillips head screw located here

 
After unscrewing it

 
next remove the 3 6mm allen head screws that hold the headlight assembly in,here are 2 of them

 
heres the third one,dont forget that one

 
Stock plug and left headlight assembly

 
take them out in any order,i started with this one,turning them to the left will get you headed in the right direction

 
remove the second one the same way

 
pull it out already

 
 
 
 
dont forget the top left one

 
pull it out also

 
ok so this one gave me alittle bit of trouble so i had to come back to it,had to use visegrips on the back side nut to hold it,it was rusted really bad wd-40 helped a lot

 
Ok so now you should be able to reach up in there and grab the headlight assembly and it come out fairly easily

 
congradulations,you just removed your left headlight (;

 
Now your left fenderwell/headlight area should look like this

 
So now would be a good time to put the 3 allen head screws in a place you wont lose them,i put mine back where they came from(marked by my thumb,pointer and middle fingers) Just so you know which ones go where and you wont lose them this way

 
One headlight down,one to go

 
Factory bulb with blue aftermarket park lamp.I will discuss what bulb and where to get them later

 

Former FCP brute owner...Man I miss that beast.
 
Check out my tahoes insane 10-18s build log here
 
http://down4sound.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4112
 
Uninterrupted build log here
 
http://down4sound.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5944
 
subscribe to my youtube channel here
 
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    ALMOST30S
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    Re:ALMOST30S ULTIMATE (HOW TO INSTALL HIDS IN AN 05-09 BRUTE GUIDE)56K BEWARE. 2nd try.. 2009/04/01 07:22:51 (permalink)
    Ok so now we are on the right side,locate the headlight connector plug and the clip that holds the wires out of the way,just like on the left side (noted by my pointer finger),its right above your shock

     
    ok so just like on the other side,push the clip together and pull it out

     
    start removing the 3 allen head screws from the front,one with the allen wrench in it and the other 2 in front of my thumb and pointer finger

     
    oh wait,dont forget this clip holding the headlight connector plug down,go ahead and pull it out for better access

     
    Just like the other side use your tool of choice to disconnect the headlight connector plug by releasing the locks holding it together,then it should pull apart like so

     
    Next you can start on the 8mm bolts that hold the headlight to the bezel just like the other side,you dont have to take these out while there under here,i just happenened to do it that way

     
    After unscrewing,remember it takes an 8mm wrench if i didnt already say that

     
    Next unscrew the inner screw with a #2 phillips head screwdriver just like the other side

     
    remove it like so

     
    now the headlight should come out fairly easily

    These covers collect mud like crazy as you can see,but congratulations,you have just removed your right headlight (;

     
    close up of the blue park lamp

     
    just putting the phillips head screw back into where it came from so it doesnt get lost

     
    same thing with the allen head screws

     
    dont forget to put the other 2 in there

     
    so your right side fenderwell/headlight area should look just like the left now

     
    both headlights removed

     
    Here are the tools used so far,A 10mm socket,an 8mm wrench,a 6mm allen wrench and a #2 phillips head screwdriver

     
    JUst a closer picture

     
    ok so now would be a good time to remove the 2 inner 8mm bolts marked here by my thumb and middle finger

     
    pulling the 8mm bolt out of the left headlight assembly

    Ok so now you will want to remove the small phillips head screw on the bottom of the headlight cover,this screw adjust the headlight up and down,becareful not to lose the spring and nylock plastic nut on the other side of the screw

     
    Here you can see i have the plastic nut inbetween my middle finger and pointer finger

     
    now that you have that bottom phillips head screw and the 2 8mm side bolts out,the headlight will come apart from the cover like this

     
    Here you can see how filthy the headlights are under that cover,can also see what the stock headlamp and parklamp look like

     
    Ok go ahead and take the other headlight out of the cover just like you did the other one,by making sure you have removed the 2 8mm outer bots and the one phillips head bolt/spring/nut combo

     
    0k now you have seperated the headlights from the assemblies/covers so they should look like this

     
    Since tthey were filthy and covered with mud now would be a good time to wash them off before going any further,if yours are clean dont bother with this step

     
    Next you will want to remove the factory plug from the bulb,to do so pullup on the locking tab and down on the plug to get it to slide out

     
    After pushing up on the clip you can push down on the plug like so to remove it

     
    Next you can remove your side marker lamp,you do so by grabing the base of the light housing and twisting it to the left until you feel it stop,then you pick up on it and it comes out like this

     
    So in this picture you see i have one wiring harness removed along with the park lamp,the other on the other headlamp is still intact

     
    Do the same thing to the other side to remove the wiring harness

     
    now to remove the headlight bulb grab the base like this and twist to the left,or counter clockwise until you feel it stop,then pull up on it to remove it

     
    after you twist it and pull up on it,it will come out like so

     
    Now go ahead and do the same thing to the other headlight bulb to remove it,just like you did the other one

     
    it will pull out just like the other one

     
    Now you have both stock bulbs that will soon be modified

     
    Ok next you measure where the filament is on your stock bulb,as you can see here it is right at 1.5 inches.its always best to try and get the "fillament,if you will" on your hid bulb to the same depth

     
     
     
    ok now you will wrap the bulb (glass part only) in a paper towel or rag so repeat the process to the other bulb when you get done with the first one

     
    JUst like this,this will keep pieces from flying everywhere and possible getting injured when you break the glass

     
    ok now you can either smash it with a hammer or do it this way,i just grabbed right at the bottom of thebulb with the pliars and hold the base (black piece) with your other hand and twist untill it breaks off or come apart from the base

     
    now it will look like this after you broke the bulb off

     
    I mean what can i say?im good like that lol. . next you will be removing the metal part from the base (on the orange stripe area on the towel)

     
    grab the metal piece with your pliars and hold the base firmly and either yank it out or if it is really stubborn just keep twisting it untill the wire snaps off

     
    next you will want to clean off all the excess plastic tumors off the back of the bulb base housing so its nice and flat on the back side.I did mine by just breaking it off piece by piece with the pliars

     
    Here you can see all the pieces i have broken off,exposing the stock bulb contact points,you will remove these also

     
    heres the bare bulb housing completly stripped of all factory parts,you can see all the pieces that have been removed in the background

     

    Former FCP brute owner...Man I miss that beast.
     
    Check out my tahoes insane 10-18s build log here
     
    http://down4sound.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4112
     
    Uninterrupted build log here
     
    http://down4sound.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5944
     
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    ALMOST30S
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    Re:ALMOST30S ULTIMATE (HOW TO INSTALL HIDS IN AN 05-09 BRUTE GUIDE)56K BEWARE. 2nd try.. 2009/04/01 07:23:56 (permalink)
    Ok now you will start drilling out the bases to acomidate the hid going in there.I do this in a 3 step process,start out with a small like 1/32 bit, or something to that extent to get you a hole started.

     
    nest you will start drilling in the hole that is directly in the center of the bulb like so

     
    this is what it should look like when after you have drilled the first hole

     
    Nextmove up in size to say a 1/4 inch bit

     
    Drill the first holes you did out with the smaller bit out with the bigger bit

     
    This is just a picture of drilling it out

     
    and another one

     
    Here you can see the larger hole,still have to go bigger to fit the hid bulb base in there,some people use a unibit to do this and that is fine,i just didnt have one available at the time.

     
    Now we are drilling with a 1/2 inch bit,be careful,it can grab and get away from you,be sure to hold the base with gloves on to prevent cutting your hand open if it catches

     
    1/2 inch bit finally got through

     
    Take it slow while drilling with the bigger bits,it can get away from you if you try to go to fast

     
    Heres the difference in the two bulb bases in before and after the 1/4 bit and the 1/2 bit

     
    ok here i was trying to test and see if the plug for the hid would go through the hole but it wasnt quite big enough yet

     
    so here i had to waller*sp the hole out witht he 1/2 inch bit because that was the biggest i had

     
    ok here you can see its now big enought for the wire to go through so you are done drilling that one out

     
    Just a picture with both wires through

     
    becareful to never touch the hid bulb,here i am doing a dry fitment to see how it looks,depending on what bulb type you get you may have to grind the tabs off the base of the plastic housing on the hid bulb for it to go down in the factory bulb base

     
    Nice!it fit perfect!

     
    a view from the top

     
    a view from the bottom now with the hid bulb set all the way in.

     
    here i put the bulb back in the headlight so i could turn it to where the white rod on the hid is directly to the bottom like its supposed to be

     
    just a better picture of it

     
    This is what it looks like in the headlight from the back

     
    the other bulb after getting the hole big enough for the wires to go thru

     
    This one fit so perfect it was scary,you can see how tight the fit was here,its just got enought clearance to squeze down in there

     
    Pulling it down in the factory base

     
    perfect fit again!thats beautiful right there!

     
    ok now we are measureing the depth that the bulb sits down in the base to make sure it is the same as factory,and as you can see here it is 1.5 inches so we are good

     
    so now that you have adjusted the height and straightness of your bulp you should be ready to epoxy and or silicone them in place.

     
    Again make sure you do not touch the bulbs!and make sure they are straight and level and the right depth before gluing them in

     
     
    This is the epoxy that i used,i got it from walmart,as you can see its 5 minute epoxy made by loctite

     
    Next find you something to mix it in and something to stir/apply it with.

     
    after you mix it well start applying small amounts around the inner edge where the hid base is touching the factory base on the "bulb side" as shown here it is halfway done

     
    Heres the picture of the whole inner edge gap fully sealed/epoxied.So theres no way water can get in now.

     
    Just one more picture for yall

     
    now after you have done that part to both bulbs set them up to "cure" for about 10 minutes so you dont have to worry about them trying to move around on you

     
    ok now stick the bulb back in the hid protective case like this and mix up another batch of epoxy to fill in the hole around the backside of the plug where we drilled it out to get the connectors through it

     
    all smooth on the back side

     
    just another picture from another angle

     
    Ok in this picture after you have let the glue set/cure for a little while,be careful not to touch the bulb and go ahead and stick the bulb in the headlight

     
    Like this,be very careful not to touch the bulb on the housing either if you can help it.

     
    Insert it in and twist it clockwise until it locks in place.

     
    after turning an locking into place.

     
    Heres a picture from in front of the headlight,as you can see the hid bulb is perfectly straight.

     
    Hers a picture of it installed,if you would like you can submerge the hid bulb end of the headlight in water to see that it doesnt leak. .i didnt because i know theres no way it can lol

     
    Next do the same thing with the other side,remember be careful not to touch the bulb on anyting if all possible

     
    Insert it into the headlight bulb housing

     
    push it all the way in and turn clockwise

     
    Untill it locks in place.

     
    Now you have sucessfully installed both bulbs in the headlight,you can test both of them underwater on the hid bulbside to make sure they dont leak if you want too.

     
     
    post edited by ALMOST30S - 2009/04/01 07:28:31

    Former FCP brute owner...Man I miss that beast.
     
    Check out my tahoes insane 10-18s build log here
     
    http://down4sound.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4112
     
    Uninterrupted build log here
     
    http://down4sound.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5944
     
    subscribe to my youtube channel here
     
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    ALMOST30S
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    Re:ALMOST30S ULTIMATE (HOW TO INSTALL HIDS IN AN 05-09 BRUTE GUIDE)56K BEWARE. 2nd try.. 2009/04/01 07:31:27 (permalink)

    Ok now you can gather all your other parts to the hids.(ballast,connector wires and relay) dilectric grease is good to have too.

     
    heres a picture of everything

     
    a closeup of headlights with the hid bulbs in there,both ballasts,and bother connecting wires

     
    heres what you will need to run the relay. 1. 30 or 40 amp relay( 4 prong), some 16guage wires,some female connectors,some butt connectors,wire strippers/crimpers and zip ties

     
    Ok now heres a closeup of the ballast,its a 55watt ballast.we will next need to find a good location to put them that will be "high and dry" and out of the way

     
    Ok this looks like a good place,about 6 inches back fromt he shock sorta behind the splash guard under the fender.

     
    Since theres really not a good way to use the "fastening" holes on these hid ballast ithis is what i do to make them have areas to hold them.Take 2 zip ties and lay them down,then put the ballast on top of it like this

     
    Now stick the male end of the ziptie into the female end and pull it through about halfway on both zipties

     
    so now it should look like this

     
     
    In this picture you can see i did the same thing with another zip tie vertically so i have a total of 3 zip ties on there now,pull the zip ties as tight as you can and cut off the excess

     
    This is the di electric grease i use,it helps keep your connectors from getting water in them

     
    add a little to the yellow seal and rub it in with our fingers,you can put a tiny amount on the contacts themselves,just dont get realy mess/sloppy with it

     
    Insert the male plug that you just greased into the female receptical on the ballast,make sure its not upside down or it wont go in

     
    push it all the way in untill it locks into place

     
    Now get two zip ties and run them like this on the backside of the ballast so when you get it in its location you can strap it down. .now that i remember,these need to be on the other side of the ballast

     
    So now we have the ballast up where its going to be installed

     
    here you can see where i have run 2 zipties around the frame to securely old it to the frame,

     
    Now pull the zip ties as tight as you can and securly fasten it to the frame

     
     
     
     
    Dont forget to cut the excess off of the zipties,remember if you have enough time to do it,you have enough time to do it right!

     
    ok here is the stock wiring harness that goes fromt the connector plug to the factory bulb,here im taking the factory electrical tape that holds all the wires together off,this isnt complete nessesary but i did it anywayss

     
    Still stripping the tape off

     
    This is a pain,but getting closer

     
    Finally,totally stripped

     
    Here you have your factory bulb connector that previously plugged into the stock bulb on the left side,,cut it off,you dont need it anymore

     
    In this picture im cuting the ground wire that splits off and goes to the factory headlight plug,you wont need that,but dont cut the whole wire off at the connector because you still need the wire to go to your park lamp

     
    now tapethe wire up where you just cut it off at.

     
    Ok here you have your high and low beam wires,the one with the red and yellow stripe you wont need, its your low beam

     
    So cut the red wire with yellow stripe off about right here next to the connector.

    Next you can cut the other red wire off a little bit further away because your going to use this one to turn the relay on.so you will need to leave yourself ample room to connect another piece of wire to it to run to the relay.

     
    So strip the wire back enough to be able to crimp it in the but connector,that red wire that we left longer to run to the relay that is

     
    So now crimp your but connector onto the wire you just stripped

     
    now find the power plug to your hid ballast that looks like this and cut it off right here.

     
    Strip bort (black and red) wires

     
    So now your wires should look like this,they are ready for the 2 but connectors now

     
    So insert the wires and crimp them down like so

     
    Now you will want to cut 3 pieces of wire long enough to connect to your 2 hid wires (red and black) and one that will attatch to the red wire with green stripe off the factory connector plug

     
    So go ahead and strip all the ends on all 3 wires,then start connecting them.Here i am connecting it to the positive for the ballast.

     
     
     
    Next do the same for the negative,after you crimp them pull on each side of the wire gently to make sure you crimped them good and wont have any issues with them coming out after install.

     
    NOw you can wrap both of the connectors very good in electrical tape.

     
    So now put a connector on the "high beam" red wire that we cut "longer" than the other red wire.This will be sending the signal to turn the relay on.

     
    Before plugging the connector back together go ahead and put a little di electric grease on the seal and connectors.

     
    Next you can plug theconnector back in and go ahead and crimp that 3rd piece of wire you cut to the other side of the but connector you put on the "high beam wire"

     
    So now start wrapping the wires that you have crimpers on together like this,all the way to the end except 3 inches or so. Dont worry about the other 2 wires (red and green) right now.

     
    So after you wrap the whole length of the 3 wires together (besides about 3 inches at the end) you are ready to run the wire bundle back to where the relay is going to be located.

     
    So now runn the wire down the top outside part of the frame rail,right behind your plastic.(you can remove your side panels to do this if you want to but its not completly neccesary)

     
    this is a picture fromthe rear,you can see how the wires are coming up by the frame rail now

    Former FCP brute owner...Man I miss that beast.
     
    Check out my tahoes insane 10-18s build log here
     
    http://down4sound.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4112
     
    Uninterrupted build log here
     
    http://down4sound.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5944
     
    subscribe to my youtube channel here
     
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    ALMOST30S
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    Re:ALMOST30S ULTIMATE (HOW TO INSTALL HIDS IN AN 05-09 BRUTE GUIDE)56K BEWARE. 2nd try.. 2009/04/01 07:33:33 (permalink)

    So now start wrapping all the wires that will be going to the headlight assemly.This consist of your factory parklamp wires and your hid + an - wires .wrap them all together

     
    As you can see here in the palm of my hand is the + and - for the hid bulb and the other two wires in my fingertips go to the parklamp.wrap these together with electical tape

     
    keep wrapping untill you get to the connectors on the hid + and-.

     
    Now you are close to putting the headlight back into the cover so have it close by.

     
    First go ahead and put a little di-electric grease on the hid bulb wire connections that snap together.

     
    Now you can connect the bulb to the ballast,make sure that the connectors "snap" into place

     
    Ok so now you have the wires connected and the park lamp wires right next to them

     
    ok now that you have them connected go ahead and wrap all 4 wires together(even the connectors too) untill you get a couple inches away from the hid bulb

     
    Now you can go ahead and install the park lamp. .oh yeah you can get these in pretty much any color you want at any auto parts store.just take the park lamp bulb out and take it to the parts store and tell them you want the color of your choice

     
     
     
    Ok now that you have put the park lamp back into the headlight and turned it until it locked into place you are ready to put it back into the cover

     
    here you can see i have the wires ran through the factory grommet and opening, you should do the same

     
    ok now you can put the head light vertical adjuster back in place,remember the screw goes in through the back,then the spring on the screw,then theheadlight,then the plastic nut,tighten until you have about 1/4 inchs of thread sticking out of the nut

     
    ok so now the headlight should be sitting down in the cover like this,now you are ready to put the side 8mm bolts in

     
    Go ahead and put in both of your 8mm bolts that hold the headlight into the cover,theres one on the right and left side and snug them up

     
    Just tightening the adjustment bolt up

     
    just a picture after i tightened it up a little

     
    ok now you will want to remove the 3 6mm allen head bolts that you put here so you wouldnt lose them or forget where they went.Heres 2 of them

     
    And heres the 3rd one,right next to the park lamp

     
    Go ahead and remove the #2 phillips screw out of the botttom also

    Now you can go ahead and place the headlight back into where it was originally,

     
    Now that its in place we can start bolting it up

     
    So you can put them back in any order that you perfer but I start with the number 2 phillps head screw right here.

     
    Now you can start on the 6mm allen head screws that attatch to the front side of the headlight,this is the one by the parklamp,start it with your fingers and finger tighten it first to prevent stipping/crossthreading the bolt

     
    Ok now take the other 2 6mm allen head bolts and insert them into the two holes left of the headlight.

     
    ONe here on top

     
    And one here on the bottom,go ahead and tighten them up after you start them with your fingers first

     
    dont forget to tighten this one all the way up

     
    ok now you will use that clip that was used to hold the factory headlight wire harness out of the way to hold your new harness you made out of the way.

     
    so push the male end on the clip into the hold until it locks in place andit will look like this. .perfect,just like the factory did it

    ok this is what it SHOULD look like now.everything out of the way,wrapped nicely and ready to be zip tied to be secured

     
    Here you can see where i ziptied everything so it would look great,you should do the same.remember you only want to do this once so do it right the FIRST TIME!.

     
    now get your zip tie cuttin pliars and trim off all the excess ziptie that you dont need.NOW YOUR DONE WITH THE LEFT SIDE!!GOOD JOB!

     
    So now move to the right side and we are pretty much going to do the same thing we did to the left side,so this side will be easier for you.do your 3 zip ties just like the other side,2 vertically and one horizontally an pull them all snug

     
    ok here they are pulled really tight,now cut off the excess zip tie

     
     
    go ahead and de-electric grease the male plug that powers the hid bulb (just like the other side)

     
    Now make sure you have the plug going in the right way and not upside down and push it in until it locks into place

     
    Just like this,,pushed all the way in and locked intoplace.

     
    Here you can see whoever installed the winch was too lazy to cut off the excess zipties

     
     
     
     
    And that i really didnt approve of it lol,so we will take care of all that for them

     
    Now find the spot to put the hid ballast,again "high and dry",but instead of being able to go on the backside of the framerail there was something there so it has to go on this side.

     
    now strap it down really good just like you did the other side,pull them as tight as you can.

     
    Dont forget to cut off the excess zip tie left over

     
    Now you should have the ballast mounted securely right here

     
    Ok so now you can cut off the factory bulb plug all together on this side because again you wont need it

     
    after i cut it off

     
    now tape the wires up really good so they wont get wet or short out on anything.

     
    Go ahead and di-electric grease the headlight wireharnes connector like the other side

     
    Just a picture of the di-electric grease in the connecotr before putting it on

     
     
     

    Former FCP brute owner...Man I miss that beast.
     
    Check out my tahoes insane 10-18s build log here
     
    http://down4sound.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4112
     
    Uninterrupted build log here
     
    http://down4sound.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5944
     
    subscribe to my youtube channel here
     
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    #5
    ALMOST30S
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    Re:ALMOST30S ULTIMATE (HOW TO INSTALL HIDS IN AN 05-09 BRUTE GUIDE)56K BEWARE. 2nd try.. 2009/04/01 07:36:10 (permalink)

     
    now push the connector back together until it locks into place

     
    You dont have to modify the wires coming out of the harnes on this side like left side because we are using the left side to turn on both sides.

     
    So now we are about ready to connect everything

     
    But first grease both hid connectors

     
    just like this

     
    Ok now that you have greased them plug them together

     
    Make sure you push them all the way in

     
    so they lock in place

     
    So now there properly secured together.

     
    now your ready to start taping everything together,just like we did on the other side

     
    start up here taping

     
    then just keep working your way down

     
    This is how it should be wrapped

     
    Just another view,and now your ready to put your park lamp in

     
    So insert it into the headlight and turn clockwise until it locks into place

     
    Now its fully locked in

     
    Ok now get your headlight cover and take the nut off your vertical adjustment screw.

     
    ok now your ready to put the headlight down into the cover just like the other side,besure that the wires go through the grommet/opening in the cover just like the other side

     
    Now put the nut on the vertical adjustment screw

     
    And tighten it down just as much as the other side

     
    Now you will want to get the 2 8mm bolts that attatch the headlight to the cover

     
    and go ahead and put them in

     
     
     
    finger tighten

     
    now put the other 8mm bolth in the other side

     
    And finger tighten then snug both of them up with the 8mm wrench

     
    Now locate your 3 6mm allen head screws located here (if you put them here so you wouldnt lose them)

     
    and heres the 3rd one

     
    And dont forget the #2 philips head screw on the botom.

     
    Now your ready to put the headlight back in place.

     
    getting there

     
    Ok now that its in place we can start bolting it down

     
    Just like the other side i started with the #2 phillips head screw.go agead and tighten it down

     
     
     
    now put these 2 6mm allen head bolts back in,finger tightening first,then tighten them down with your 6mm allen wrench

     
    Dont forget this one

     
    start by finger tightening it again.

     
    now that you have all of them in and finger tightened,you can start tightening all of them down with the 6mm allen wrench

     
    tighten this one all the way down

     
    then this one

     
    Then this one

     
    Now your headlight is back in place and secure!

     
    so now we just have to cleanup/secure the wiring and we will be done with this side

     
    Now you want to use that factory clip to hold the wires out of the way.

     
    Insert it into the hole until it locks into place

     
    So now we are ready for a few zipties to secure everything

     
     
    one right here to hold the connector up and out of the way

     
    just like this

     
    cut off the excess!

     
    Now cut the connector plugg off the end of the positive and ground coming from the hid ballast just like the other side

     
    cut off the plug with your "cuttin pliars"

     
    we cut the plug

     
    Now strip both of the ends of the positive and negative wires

     
    So now they should look like this and ready for connectors

     
    so get your connectors and insert the wire and crimp them just like this

     
    So now that you have crimped both connectors on both wires they should look just like this

    Now you want to cut your wire that you will use to run the positive

    Former FCP brute owner...Man I miss that beast.
     
    Check out my tahoes insane 10-18s build log here
     
    http://down4sound.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4112
     
    Uninterrupted build log here
     
    http://down4sound.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5944
     
    subscribe to my youtube channel here
     
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    #6
    ALMOST30S
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    Re:ALMOST30S ULTIMATE (HOW TO INSTALL HIDS IN AN 05-09 BRUTE GUIDE)56K BEWARE. 2nd try.. 2009/04/01 07:40:51 (permalink)

    now you have both wired crimped!good job!

     
     
    Now start wrapping the whole length of them in electrical tape just like th other side

     
    looking good,halfway done

     
    ok now we have the whole length of the wires wrapped except for about 3 or 4 inches,now they are ready to run back to where the relay is gonna be under the seat

     
    Its hard to get a good camera angle on how to run the wire back like i did on the other side but youll get the drift of how to do it

     
    so run it right down the top of the frame rail right behind the side panel just like the other side

     
    I brought the wires out right here

     
    now we are getting somewhere!

     
    so here are both wire groups coming from the front

     
    so heres a closeup picture of the ballast and the wires being secured.Dont forget to cut off all the excesss from the zipties!

     
    Its hard to tell but just showing a few places where i ziptied the wires out of the way.Again dont forget to cut off the excess!

     
    Now im gonna finish zip tieng the wires that came from the front

     
     
    zip tie them where ever you think they need it and cut off the extra!

     
    just trimmin off the extra again

     
    securly fastend away from everything

     
    clean it up and we are done with them wires

     
    So now we will start wiring up the relay.Ok in this picture i have both positives from the ballasts in the front in my hand

     
    so take both of the positives and cut off the excess wire you dont need and then strip the wire on the ends. .be sure no to cut them to short

     
    Now that you have both wires stripped like this

     
    you can twist them together like this,.remember this is the both the posatives from the two ballast twisted together,make sure you dont get the wires mixed up!

     
    Now get a but connector and slide the wires you just twisted together into one end a crimp it down really good

     
    Ok now we are going to do the negatives coming from the ballast in the front the same way

     
    Cut off the excess you dont need like this

     
    Then strip both the negative wires and twist them together

     
    twisted together and ready to go in connector

     
    So put the connector on and crimp it down REALLY good jsut like the rest of them we have done,then give them a slight tug to make sure they arent going to pull out

     
    so now we are going to start wiring up the relay,ill try to explain this as best i can and make it as simple as possible

     
    first you will want to cut a piece of wire about 6 inches long for your constant positive wire.Which will be coming from the battery or the + battery cable goign to the solenoid.

     
    So strip the wire on both ends and put a female connector on one end (to attatch to the relay male #30 pin) and a ring connector on the other end to attatch to the positive side of the solenoid and or your + battery terminal

     
     
    heres a picture of the wire that i made for the #30 terminal on the relay.female on one end and ring on the other.If you would rather hook this directly to your battery thats fine too,just make the wire about a foot longer

     
    This is where i will be mounting the relay,its a perfect location in the tray with everything else under the seat and out of the way

     
    Ok this is your "high beam wire" coming from the front left side.This wire is going to "turn on the relay" when you turn your lights to high beam on the handle bar.

     
    So cut the "high beam" wire off to desired length so it will reach where the relay is going to be mounted with a little slack.strip the end,crimp a female connector on it and push it on the #87 relay pin

     
    now make two wires like this that will connect the 2 ballast posatives and negatives from both sides to the posative and negatives on the relay.Mine are about 8 inches long,stripped both ends and crimped female terminals on one end of them to attach them the relay.
     
    now crimp one of the wires you just made into the otherside of the but connector that your two positive ballast wires are connected at.crimp them down really good.should look like this

     
    Now do the same thing with the negatives that you did with the posatives except you will add an extra piece of wire to ground to the frame

     
    you cant see the extra piece of wire for the - but it will twist together with the wire that connects to the relay and ground it to the frame with a ring terminal

     
     
    so now connect the + wire with the female connector on it to the #87 pin on the relay

     
    now you connect the negative wires the same way but they go to the #85 pin on the relay.dont forget that one extra 6 inch piece of wire you made for the negative has to be grounded to the frame for them to work.

     
    Here you can see all the wires and everything before cleanin them up .The yellow circle is showing the screw that i used to ground the relay.

     
    Now we are ready to put the battery back in and fire them up.!and test them out!

     
    making sure the battery tray is tight first

     
    make sure its set in there properly and all the way down

     
    now attatch the positive to the positive side and the negative wire to the negative side of the battery.start by finger tightening them.dont forget to hook the + for your relay up to the + on the battery

     
    Then tighten them down with your 10mm wrench or your #3 phillips head screwdriver.so it’s the moment of truth.  ... are they gonna work after all that hard work?OF COURSE THEY ARE!Now turn the key on and turn the lights on high and watch them fireballs in your headlights ignite!!The first time you turn them on leave them on for at least 10 minutes to let them “break in”

     
    It takes about 3-5 seconds for them to burn at full intensity! so dont get upset if they arent super bright right at first this is normal. .they have to "warm up"

     

    Former FCP brute owner...Man I miss that beast.
     
    Check out my tahoes insane 10-18s build log here
     
    http://down4sound.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4112
     
    Uninterrupted build log here
     
    http://down4sound.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5944
     
    subscribe to my youtube channel here
     
    www.youtube.com/THELIFEOFPRICE
    #7
    ALMOST30S
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    Re:ALMOST30S ULTIMATE (HOW TO INSTALL HIDS IN AN 05-09 BRUTE GUIDE)56K BEWARE. 2nd try.. 2009/04/01 07:47:30 (permalink)
    Now you can see the difference of before and after. . there MUCH brighter.. and you can see we have a nice "light beam" and how its focused nicely like the stock bulbs were!thats why we put them the exact same depth!

     
    The first time you turn them on leave them on for about 10 minutes so they can "burn in" properly. Oh and the right headlight may look yellow because its shinning on yellow brick, but I assure you they are both bright super white
     
    Bright enough?

     
    Sorry it was kind of blurry,my camera was like completly dead by this time and wasnt taking good pictures at all.. .but hey LET THERE BE LIGHT!

     
    Dont forget to install the battery cover and tighten down the 3 10mm bolts that hold it in place

     
    Here you can see how i wrapped everything really nicely with electrical tape and ziptied it out of the way,and of course triming everything unnessesary off making it look professional

     
    Here is where i mounted the relay.You can attatch it by using one self taping screw and screw it down into this location.you can also see where i attatched the + and - for the relay

     
    picture of the right headlight with hid installed

     
    picture of the left headlight with hid installed

     
    both headlights with hids installed,buring at full intensity

     
    very nice

     
    and very bright!

     
    when you turn the headlight selector to "low beam" only your park lamps come on and it looks like this

     
    one last one while i toook it for a spin!I hope that you found this very helpful because i had to basically do the whole thing with one hand lol!! the end!

     
     
     
     
    So to go over the relay again
     
     You will connect  both positive wires from both ballast to the #87  Pin
     
    You will connect your constant 12v power source (the one from your battery) to the # 30PIN.You can fuse this if you would like,with a 30 amp fuse should be fine.
     
    You will connect the “high beam turn on wire” to the # 86PIN.
     
    You will connect both ground wires from both ballast to the #85 PIN.Remember you have to ground these to the frame somewhere!
     
    And remember there are a few different ways to do this,this just happens to be my way.If you find a way that’s different that works better for you do it!!
     
    Tips are accepted at bagged_z71@yahoo.com via paypal (: LOLZ

    Former FCP brute owner...Man I miss that beast.
     
    Check out my tahoes insane 10-18s build log here
     
    http://down4sound.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4112
     
    Uninterrupted build log here
     
    http://down4sound.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5944
     
    subscribe to my youtube channel here
     
    www.youtube.com/THELIFEOFPRICE
    #8
    devildog12210
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    Re:ALMOST30S ULTIMATE (HOW TO INSTALL HIDS IN AN 05-09 BRUTE GUIDE)56K BEWARE. 2nd try.. 2009/04/01 08:04:01 (permalink)
    Nice!!! Lots of pictures!!!




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