Received a PM from Snowride of ATV Frontier, indicating the information in this post was compiled by him and Farmr from that site.
Snowride asks for credit and attribution to him and Farmr for the effort they put into developing the information.
Please give authors credit for information obtained from them.
Outlaw_Monster I have no idea how correct this info is. This is all the info on the Frontier.
Polaris Thermostatic Fan Switch
July 03 2003/Updated Nov 15 2003
Thermostatic Fan Switch (Thermal Sensor) (Polaris part # 4010161)
The radiator fan is turned on automatically when the thermal sensor reaches a certain temp to assist in cooling the engine coolant by blowing air through the cooling fins of the radiator. A defective sensor will guarantee an overheat situation. I found this on another site and it was confirmed a perfect fit and the specs say it will work fine.
Original Polaris fan switch, #4010161, $75..Contacts on @ 180 degrees
Contacts off @ 149 degrees
Non-OEM, manufactured by Wells #SW526, $20.....Contacts on @ 194 degrees
Contacts off @ 174 degrees
Heres another one which a member over at the quadsquad has used on his 700. It is a Napa part # is FS147, the brand is Echlin . Cost $22
The application is for Nissan/Datsun 1984-1990 and can be found at any auto parts store.
Although the temp range is slightly higher on the non-OEM, I do not see any problems. The engine coolant thermostat starts opening at 176 degrees and is fully open at 205 degrees. This means the ideal operating range of the engine is fully respected but may cause the fan to come on a little more frequently or sometimes less frequently depending on the conditions.
I have checked recent models and found the same part # for all the Polaris liquid cooled machines. This means the Wells unit will work in the 700/600/500/400. I do suggest you make sure your model requires the same Polaris part # as I have listed above before ordering the Wells unit.
Polaris, Light Bulbs
Pod bulb (Polaris part # 4010161, new style) (# 2870448, old style, H4)
There are 2 types of bulbs that are used by Polaris in the Sportsman pod. In general, 03 and up will have a 90-degree connector with 2 pins. The replacement bulb can be found almost anywhere if you ask for a GE 886 If you want a slight improvement and a much whiter light, then I recommend you get one of these, unfortunately they only come in 2 packs but at this price, who cares.
This bulb can be purchased HERE
PS. Do not confuse a GE#894, although it will fit and work, it is only 35watt as opposed to the stocker which is 50watt.
Models before 03 will have a straight connector with 3 male spades protruding from the bulb. This is also available wherever they sell automotive lights but the wattage/color selection is almost mind-boggling. Ask for a H4 50/65watt if you want the equivalent to stock. Below is a pick of what the H4 bulb looks like.
I recommend the PIAA brand Extreme White # 15261 (single pack) as there product gives far surperior lighting to anything else I have tried, unfortunately the quality is reflected in the price. The PIAA bulb can be found on ebay at a reduced price when compared to the PIAA SITE
Tail/Brake Light Bulb (Polaris part # 4030043)
Polaris uses a standard 2-filament bulb found in almost all cars. This is also available almost anywhere by asking for a # 1157 or GE 198 bulb.
Bumper Mounted Light Bulb (Polaris part # 4030059)
At this point in time you have no choice but to order the OEM Polaris bulb @ $15ea as there are no aftermarket bulbs available. I have found you can purchase a complete set of driving/fog lights for $20, which will improve the lighting substantially since they come with 55-watt, H3 halogen bulbs and much better replaceable lenses vs. the Polaris 37watt bulbs and non replaceable lenses. Replacement H3 bulbs can be had for just a few dollars.
Polaris, Oil Filters
March 24 2004
Here is a link to a cross reference chart for those of you who may elect to use a different filter than the original one.
The neat thing about the link is if you click on the appropriate oil filter for your machine it will bring up another window showing the specs and a picture, but the neatest part is when you click on the "show all applications" link provided , it will give you a listing of everything that uses this same oil filter. You will likely get a long list of cars, tractors, lawn mowers, ect, which is super handy when you go to your local car parts place and ask for a filter for a certain car as opposed to a filter for an ATV where they look at you kinda funny because alot of these people do not even know what an ATV is. Once you know the cross reference vehicle, this opens the door for every brand of filter out there. Cool huh.
Wix Cross Reference
A special thanks to scottytohotty for posting these Napa numbers
Napa Oil Filter #1357:, All the Polaris twins
Napa Oil Filter #1358:, All the Polaris single cylinder
Polaris, Steering Post Bushing
If you have an OLDER Polaris machine, one with the PLASTIC lower steering post bushing, and it wears out, there is available a far superior product. The one made by HPD is truly a 'lifetime' replacement. I have yet to see one ever worn out that was ever greased. Heck, I know of a couple that were never greased, and are still going. Available direct from
www.hpd-inc.com or
www.rittercycle.com for about $30. It is a direct fit for the Polaris PLASTIC bushing, except for needing to drill out the mounting holes a little, because the bolts that hold it are heavier-duty than the rivets Polaris used. This can easily be done with a right-angle drill, or a Dremel-type tool. The bushing sometimes seems quite 'tight' a fit, but it soon breaks in and steers as easily as ever.
Steering Post Bushing (Polaris part # 5431570)
Note: This is a replacement for the PLASTIC bushings ONLY. When Polaris switched to the METAL one from the factory, they changed the sizes of some of the components, so it will not fit those. I realize this is not available at NAPA or most automotive stores, but I feel the product is so superior; it is worth getting mail order.
Polaris, Super Strength Tie Rod Ends
March 28 2004
OK, here we go.
I got my tie rod ends from MSC Industrial supply 1-800-645-7270. All part numbers are off their big book. I don't have any cross-reference numbers. You will have to measure your tie rods to see what you need, that part will be up to you. If you are OK with that, here goes:
Tie rod ends for machines with the 1/2 inch diameter fine thread tie rods (20 threads per inch) such as what is on my 1999 Xplorer:
For extra-strength tie rod ends (15,000# rated) the part number is:
35398700
That is for a 1/2 inch fine thread female tie rod end. The inner end is right hand thread, the outer one is left hand thread. The part numbers are the same, you need to specify RH or LH thread when ordering. If you don't specify, you will probably get RH thread.
The center hole of these ends is larger than the Polaris one. You will either have to drill the hole out on your machine, and use a larger bolt, or get bushings to make up the difference. I used bushings. The bushing part #s are:
06454524 bushing for the outer tie rod end
90845942 bushing for the inner tie rod end.
The outer tie rod end needs just a little extra clearance to work properly, so I used a bushing with a small shoulder built into it. I placed this shoulder between the tie rod end and strut, and it works fine. The inner doesn't need the extra clearance, so it gets a standard bushing.
Cost, out of last year's book is $19.66 for the tie rod ends, and 55 cents each bushing. You may or may not need to get bolts (3/8 inch hardware store stuff) to attatch the outer ends, depending on year and model.
Now, if you have an older machine, or any one with the 3/8 inch fine threaded tie rods, your tie rod end part # will be:
35398684
This is for a 3/8 inch tie rod end, 3/8 inch fine female thread. No bushings will be needed. Again, you may need to go to the hardware store for bolts on the outers, or may not, depending on your machine.
The only other consideration is that since these are heavy-duty ends, they are slightly larger than the stockers. If you have oversized tires that almost rub the ends, they may touch these. I would say you lose just under 1/4 inch of clearance between the tie rod end and tire (my guess). These are super-strength ends, with teflon bearings, and will definately outlast the stockers. I triple checked the part numbers, and sure hope I got them all right, but measuring the tie rod ends is up to you.
UPDATE
The OUTER tie rod ends on the older machines, the ones with the 3/8 inch tie rod, can also use part # 35398783
This tie rod end will have a stud where it fits into the strut, instead of just an eye. It will be similar to the original equipment like what is on my brother's '95 Xpress, and won't need an additional bolt for it's use.
Also, if you order anything from MSC, be sure to ask them to include a copy of their BIG book. Has more stuff like this (and bearings, tools, etc, etc) than you can shake a stick at. To give you an idea of just how much stuff they have in the book (also available on CD) the tie rod ends are on page 3798
They also have a website, if you want pictures of what the parts look like, you can go to
http://www.mscdirect.com/The Polaris part #s for the outer tie rod end, 1/2 inch tie rod is 7061033
which has been updated to Polaris # 7061054
The Polaris part # for the inner tie rod end, 1/2 inch is 7061034
I don't have the part #s for the 3/8 inch tie rod.
Remember that the 1/2 inch tie rod ends need the bushings in them, as the eye diameter is bigger than the mounting bolt. The MSC part #s are in my previous post.
I might also add that on some (especially older) machines, the inner tie rods may be a tight fit. You can get them to work by 'staggering' them, as they do on the newer machines. They put one end between the ears on the steering post, and use a longer bolt (with a spacer between the ears so they won't crush) and put the other end beneath the ears. This should give enough clearance to make it work. I thought I would add this as my Xplorer already had them 'staggered' from the factory, but brother's older Xpress had both between the ears on the steering post.
Polaris, Universal Joints
June 04 2003
Feb 10 2004 (modified)
A special thanks to beerman for testing and supplying the front universal joint numbers.
This is one of those items that are supposed to be maintenance free and are therefore called lube free. I believe the intentions of Polaris were good because the most common complaint was we had to grease to many fittings. Polaris listened to the customers and we ended up almost maintenance free. I my opinion, they did well but should have left the universal joints with grease zerks on them. I think lube less refers more to what they eventually will become, rather than what they are! If you are the type who believes greasing is not important and do not do it on a regular basis, I recommend you remain with the sealed Polaris type.
Universal joint for rear prop shaft,(Polaris part #) 2202015(sealed, no grease zerk) 600/700 @ $24.99
Napa equivalent, with grease zerk # 1501 @ $8
Polaris universal joint for all 4x4 models everywhere up front (Polaris part #) # 3260104 # $29.99
Federal-Mogul Driveline Products Precision Universal Joint #338 $12.95
As always, please verify the Polaris part # I have listed is the one you require for your ride before ordering it.