Grizzly Bearing Replacement How-To
I figured while I had mine apart I'd make a little how-to for those who would like to replace their bearing on their own. This is for my 2002 Grizzly 660, but the idea is the same for the 03+ 660s. The 03+ 660s have some differences. Single bearing setup and a staked axle nut instead of a cotter pin just to name a few.
Anywho, away we go. My Grizzly is pretty much stripped right now.
Lug Nuts: 40ft-lbs.
Axle Nut: 145ft-lbs.
Caliper Bolts: 22ft-lbs.
Upper Ball Joint Castle Nut: 18ft-lbs.
Lower Ball Joint Bolt/Nut: 35ft-lbs.
Tie Rod End Castle Nut: 18ft-lbs.
Brake Line Hold-down: 7.2ft-lbs.
Bearings and Seals
Wheel Bearing Grease
6MM Allen Key Socket
12MM, 14MM, 17MM Sockets
14MM, 17MM, 24MM Wrench
Needle Nose Pliers
Ball Peen Hammer (or 2lb Sledge)
First off, break loose your lug nuts while the bike is on the ground. That way you don't have to deal with doing so with the tires spinning freely. Then jack the bike up and secure it on jackstands.
Now pull the wheel off and remove the cotter pin from the axle nut.
Now to break loose the axle nut. It's on there at about 145ft-lbs of torque so it can be quite fun to remove. I use a handle for a hydraulic jack (or another steel pipe) and stick it through the hub and let the other end rest on the ground. This holds the hub secure while you break loose the nut. I use a 24MM wrench and a cheater pipe.
Remove the axle nut and washer.
Then remove the caliper by removing the two mounting bolts on the backside of the hub assembly.
You can now remove the hub/rotor assembly. When you remove the assembly, make sure you find the o-ring that's hiding between the two pieces. Make sure you keep that thing safe and be careful when re-assembling it so you don't cut it. Give it a good coat of grease upon re-assembly and you're all set to go.
Now take out the cotter pins on the upper and lower ball joints and remove the nut on the top, and the nut and bolt on the lower.
Do the same to the tie rod.
Now take a good sized hammer (2lb or 4lb sledge works great) and hit the cast iron park of the knuckle that surrounds the tie rod (red arrow). Do NOT hit the tie rod head or the threaded stud. After a few good smacks with a hammer, you will be able to pull the tie rod end out of the knuckle.
Now do the same to the upper ball joint, hitting only where the red arrow is pointing.
When you have the upper joint loose, push down on the knuckle and pull the top of it outwards to clear the knuckle of the top ball joint stud. While you're here, take a 6MM allen key socket and remove the bolt that holds the brake line to the knuckle.
Now, for the lower ball joint all you need to do is pry up on the underside of the knuckle. You may need to give it a good smack with a hammer to loosen up the ball joint stud, but you'll need to pry the knuckle up off of the stud in order to remove it. Yes, I'm using a screwdriver as a prybar which is wrong, but I couldn't find my prybar. Just be careful not to pinch the ball joint boot while doing this.
Once you have the knuckle pried off of the lower ball joint, you can pull the assembly off of the axle splines.
Now is the fun part.
Inside the hub are two bearings and a spacer. The spacer is between the two bearings and just "floats" around in there.
First we need to remove the seals. There are special seal removers, but I just use a large tipped flat blade screwdriver. Since you are replacing the seals anyways (I'm reusing mine in this guide for show because mine aren't here yet) you won't need to worry about hurting them. Wedge the screwdriver underneath the seal and twist the handle of the screwdriver.
Keep going around the perimeter of the seal and it will pop out. Do this to both sides.
Now that you have the seals out you can start knocking the bearings out. You can place the assembly in a vice or you can knock it around on the ground like myself. I've got a small section of I-Beam I am using as a base. If you don't have a sturdy enough base, the blows with your hammer won't be as hard as they would be with a steel base.
Anywho, take a punch and push the spacer to the side enough to where you can get a punch on the bearing on the opposite side of the hub. Each bearing must be knocked out of it's own side, so it doesn't matter which side you start with. The first one is always the most difficult.
Here's one of the bearings and the spacer removed from the hub.
Then flip the hub over and knock the other bearing out from the other side. Make sure you knock it out using the inner race since you can't hit the outer race. There is a bearing stop ring inside the bore that basically is a depth stop for the bearings so they won't be installed too deeply. Don't hit that part, only the inner race of the bearing.
Anywho, I remove a seal on a bearing to show you what's inside there tearing them up.
New bearing ready to be installed. This is not a Yamaha bearing, but a bearing by ORS. When getting bearings from a bearing supply shop, they only really need to know the "6006 2RS C3" part. If they carry ORS Bearings, then give them the whole number. These bearings are dual sealed, and I think the stock Yamaha ones are only single sealed. It's been awhile since I've seen one.
You can now pack the bearing bore with grease to help keep the water and mud out of the bearings. Place the new bearing in the bore.
Then using an old bearing, place it on the new one as a driver. Make sure you only drive the new bearing in by hitting it on the outer race (red arrow). Do NOT hit the inner race on the new bearings. This can bend the cage and cause premature wear.
Do NOT use the old bearing to drive the new one all the way in. If you do so, then the old bearing will be stuck in the bearing bore along with the new bearing and is really difficult to remove. I've done it. You don't want to. Once the near bearing is flush or just below the surface, take your punch and drive the bearing in the rest of the way, moving the punch around the perimeter of the outer bearing race to drive it in evenly. Again, ONLY hit the outer race of the bearing to drive it in.
You will feel your hits with the hammer get really solid and that's when you know the bearing has seated against the stop.
Now take your new seal, throw some more grease in on top of the bearing and install the seal by tapping it in with the punch. Same thing here as the bearings. Only hit them on the outer perimeter so you don't damage the lips.
Once the seal is flush with the bearing hub, you're good to do the other side.
Flip the hub over, drop in the bearing spacer, and install the new bearing and seal on this side. Once that's done, you can reverse the disassembly and put everything back together.
When you install new cotter pins during re-assembly, you may encounter a problem with the holes not lining up with the spaces on the castle nuts. If you come across this after you have torqued the nuts, DO NOT loosen the nuts in order to get the holes to line up. You must only tighten the nuts to align the holes.
Also make sure you double check that you have all nuts and bolts tightened up to their proper specs. You might also want to apply Anti-Seize to each of the nuts and bolts so the next time you tear everything apart, it comes apart easier.
Anywho, I think this covers everything, if I'm missing something or if you have any questions, PM me or feel free to post a reply!
post edited by mud_dog450 - 2009/03/19 19:51:25