01 GMC 2500hd 6.0L rap rap rap?

back2XR

sanjac

ndependent

wickedhonda


Besides the fact that we (family) owns a shop, and seeing it first hand, hard enough facts for me. So the plastic causes the gasket to "rot" and leak, I think not. Not to mention Chevy will admit it seems to be a problem (not that my cousin owns a local dealership or anything). The sealing between 2 items has nothing to do with what they are made of, it's the gasket, and if enough tq can be applied to seal it.

Search around, make a few calls, decide for yourself.

 
Yes this post is complete bs. Especially when there is NO water that runs Through the intake!!!!!!!!!! Its a dry intake. Now back on the topic. my truck thas a piston slap as well mine being an 02 2500 hd with the 6.0. It more on the drivers side. As it warms up it goes away some.

 
 
You know I was thinking the same thing when I read that post. It almost made me go running through the woods screaming. lol. Heck I would'nt even worry about, as long as the motor is not misfireing the lifters are still doing there job. Chances are if you didn't have a rod knock when you parked the truck you don't have one now. The lifters in my 2000 have been tapping since it was new and that was in the neighborhood of 250k miles ago.

Thanks for the input guys, but its not lifters or piston slap. I wish I could tear it apart, but my back is real messed up right now, I hope to take a look soon though.
 
So far all ive done is pull the valve covers off and check things out. The valve train works as it should.
 
I aslo removed the belt to check accessories, not there.
 
The noise is a KNOCK not a lifter tap. I hope to get you all an answer soon.

 
Try to cancel out each cylinder to narrow down which one its coming from. The way ive always done it is to remove the spark plug wire off the plug while its running. Most of the time if you take the load off of a cylinder the noise will decrease some. That will give you an idea of which cylinder its coming from. But you have to find someone how not afraid of some electricity because sometimes it will get you lol

07 CAN AM OUTLANDER
A FEW EXTRAS!!!!

UPDATE:

Thanks again Chester1.

Got the oil pan off, thats a chore in itself. We removed each rod cap and checked all the rod bearings. There all good.

We took the pass side valve cover back off and removed all the pushrods. They all felt the same while unbolting, and were all coated the same with oil.

After doing that, we've had about enough crawling in and around the engine compartment, so the motor is comming out. Its almost out, put the power outage yesterday put a damper on progress. 
 
In my downtime over the weekend I also managed to completely rebuild a sportsman 500ho that over heated. Thing got so hot the wrist pin scored the rod.  Wow I need sleep.

-07 Kawasaki Brute Force 750i, Dynatec CDI, two needle shims, 26x9-12 Big Horns front/rear, ITP C-7 Rims, Hand/ thumb warmers, Tusk atv handgaurds, Black Viper 2500 Max(aka classic) w/ amsteel, yukon backrest, Black and Decker tool box, truck mudflaps 

 

All  bearings were good dang didn't see that one coming.  Good thing your pulling it out it sounds like its guna have to be torn all the way down.

2006 brute force tha beast
2007 brute force sold
2005 cummins black smoke?
2005 z-71 tahoe wifes ride on them 22s
2005 seadoo rxp jet ski yeah its supercharged
2000 s10 bagged on 22s in the middle of a ls2 swap
1995 geo tracker lifted locked and ltbs ready to climb

Got the engine out last night. Hopefully I will get a chance to tear it down over the weekend.

-07 Kawasaki Brute Force 750i, Dynatec CDI, two needle shims, 26x9-12 Big Horns front/rear, ITP C-7 Rims, Hand/ thumb warmers, Tusk atv handgaurds, Black Viper 2500 Max(aka classic) w/ amsteel, yukon backrest, Black and Decker tool box, truck mudflaps 

 

Passenger head off and lifters out, no problems there.

-07 Kawasaki Brute Force 750i, Dynatec CDI, two needle shims, 26x9-12 Big Horns front/rear, ITP C-7 Rims, Hand/ thumb warmers, Tusk atv handgaurds, Black Viper 2500 Max(aka classic) w/ amsteel, yukon backrest, Black and Decker tool box, truck mudflaps 

 

Any one ever heard of "carbon knock"? So far bothe heads are off and pistons out. Theres nothing wrong. But there is alot of carbon build up everywhere. The tops of the pistons have quite a bit built up. You can see the carbon had definatly hit the head.

Gunna tear check it over real good, then probably run a ball hone through the jugs, new rings, and a new rod bearing.

-07 Kawasaki Brute Force 750i, Dynatec CDI, two needle shims, 26x9-12 Big Horns front/rear, ITP C-7 Rims, Hand/ thumb warmers, Tusk atv handgaurds, Black Viper 2500 Max(aka classic) w/ amsteel, yukon backrest, Black and Decker tool box, truck mudflaps 

 

its could happen if the carbon was hard and thick enuff.  Anything coming in contact with a solid part is guna make noise.  Is it possable to happen yes.  Is it likely to happen no.  From now on try to get gas at the same place everytime you can and pick a decent place like a truck stop that runs threw alot of fuel.  Also try to run middle grade if your pocket book will allow it and try to run some fuel cleaner every couple of tanks and or some rubbing alchoal if thats all the pocket book will allow.  This just goes to show how crappy our fuel has gotten.  The lowest grade stuff is just a step above water lol.

2006 brute force tha beast
2007 brute force sold
2005 cummins black smoke?
2005 z-71 tahoe wifes ride on them 22s
2005 seadoo rxp jet ski yeah its supercharged
2000 s10 bagged on 22s in the middle of a ls2 swap
1995 geo tracker lifted locked and ltbs ready to climb

how about the wrist pins? check the small end of the rods for play at the wrist pins. is there a ridge at the top of the cylinder bore?

georgiaboyskingquad


how about the wrist pins? check the small end of the rods for play at the wrist pins. is there a ridge at the top of the cylinder bore?

wrist pins are fine, same with the cylinders.

-07 Kawasaki Brute Force 750i, Dynatec CDI, two needle shims, 26x9-12 Big Horns front/rear, ITP C-7 Rims, Hand/ thumb warmers, Tusk atv handgaurds, Black Viper 2500 Max(aka classic) w/ amsteel, yukon backrest, Black and Decker tool box, truck mudflaps 

 

Found the problem.
Bend rod.

Cause: My theory,
A bad injector.

Ive owned the truck for two years. It has always had a problem loosing fuel pressure when shut off, you need to cycle the fuel pump before it will start. I always thought it was draining back through the fuel pump into the tank, now im thinking injector.

The battery was dead when my father went to start it, but probably enough to pump in fuel.
By the time they got it jump started, there must have been enough fuel in the cyl to hyrolock it and bend the rod.
Thats the only thing I can think of.

My anti freeze and motor oil are clean, not contaminated.

Im going to hook up the fuel rails tonight and cycle the pump to see if an injector is leaking.
 
What was making the noise?

-07 Kawasaki Brute Force 750i, Dynatec CDI, two needle shims, 26x9-12 Big Horns front/rear, ITP C-7 Rims, Hand/ thumb warmers, Tusk atv handgaurds, Black Viper 2500 Max(aka classic) w/ amsteel, yukon backrest, Black and Decker tool box, truck mudflaps